How To Do Black Tie Correctly
With December now underway and trees certainly up (still too early in my view), it may prove useful to explore the second-grandest evening dress code coming your way on an invitation: black tie.
Black tie was deliberately created to be a less dressy form of white tie, believe it or not. So much so that, infamously in Downton Abbey, the Dowager Countess of Grantham mistook it for a waiter's uniform.
The controversial origins of black tie
'Black tie’ or ‘dinner jackets’ as seen on invitations, is the dress code most people will be familiar with in modern Britain – be it on red carpets, at cocktail parties, or even at some weddings, but who really invented it? Recollections may vary.
Edward VII with Henry Poole & Co
In 1865, the Prince of Wales (Bertie) went to Henry Poole and Co (still-thriving on Savile Row today) and ordered a ‘celestial blue’ silk dress jacket. This was a regular-length jacket that just covered the rump, with a relaxed fit and no horsehair inside. This new ode to elegance was ideal to wear when dining with family and close friends.
Correct male form for black tie
Let's turn our attention to all-important details to ensure maximum dress code accuracy and sophistication.
Bow tie
As the name goes, your bow tie should be black, and made of silk or grosgrain. The correct width should be wide enough to be in line with the width of your face.
You may get kudos from sartorialists by adopting the 'Macmillan', named after former Prime Minister Harold Macmillan: tucking the bow tie under the collar. A chic example of 'sprezzatura', but probably not to be repeated.
Shirts
Marcella shirts are the nicest, pleated bosoms can be pleasant, but must be crisp white. Your inner dandy might be tempted by a ruffled shirt, but you will risk looking like Austin Powers. Be warned. You can fasten the shirt with visible dress studs or conceal with the shirt placket. Always with French cuffs.
Dinner jacket
Dinner jackets can be ventless at the back, though this is not very practical when seated. Single-breasted or double-breasted is fine, the main thing is having satin grosgrain peak lapels. Shawl collar jackets are also an option.
White dinner jackets (or cream, usually) are only permissible, however, in very tropical climates. Not Britain, then.
Trousers and shoes
Trousers for this evening look should only have one piece of braid down the outside of each leg, with patent pumps, dress shoes or very shiny black Oxfords.
Correct female form for black tie
This one is less clear cut, as so much depends on the type of event, time of year and personal preference. A good rule of thumb is that the more effort on the part of the host, the grander the dress.
Dress length
Preference for dress length can be stated on the invitations so everybody is broadly in sync.
Dress colour
Unlike the male form, there is no need to wear black for the women. While it is perfectly acceptable to do so, dresses can be colourful or patterned. In fact, some say that the aim of those wearing just black and white is so those in dresses will stand out and look radiant.
Hair, shoes, and bags
Long hair can be worn ‘down’, or tied up if there will be dancing, as with white tie. Tiaras are not worn with black tie, however.
Clutch bags are the go-to, but a thin strap is no less elegant. Trying to juggle your champagne and canapé is not a good look when shaking hands.
Shoes, as for any form of formal evening dress, should ideally be closed-toe, but open-toed ones are becoming more acceptable for hotter weather and less formal events.
Yours sincerely,
William
