The Joy Of Jacket Buttons

After my sartorial sojourn in New & Lingwood this week (action replay)​, I want to talk all things buttons so you can avoid some common jacket japes.

Buttons have long been an embellishment of garments, and like most things, were born out of the medieval aristocracies (circa 13th century) to show off prestige and status with the most luxury of details.

Buttons in British 19th century tailoring

It was only in the 19th century when all suit garments begin to take the shape we still wear them in today.

Like most sartorial eccentricities, we can't say for sure where things arise and from whom, but we do know that Edward VII played a role from the point of view of English tailoring.

The apocryphal story goes that Edward VII - a man of considerable girth - could not fasten his bottom waistcoat button. Staff and others noticing this decide to leave their bottom button undone too to make the king feel not alone.

The trend was set.

Edward VII along with pioneering Savile Row tailors Henry Poole & Co Invented the Dinner Jacket as worn correctly for black tie.

How do I know which buttons to fasten?

It depends on the style of jacket.

Comparing traditional English tailoring (left) with more Neapolitan tailoring (right), you can see that the bottom of the jacket sweeps out and separates more on the right, thus making it near-impossible to fasten the bottom button without dragging the lines of the cloth.

Three, two, or both?

American jacket styles by 20th century were historically marked by a three-roll-two button.

This means the jacket has three buttons, but the lapel rolls to the centre button (looks best when you only fasten the centre button). It is particularly sartorial rumoured to be of Ivy League origins, but it is a wonderful detail in creating a long lapel line that looks both traditional and modern.

So, always leave the bottom undone?

Not quite.

In my demonstration this week, I showed you the most common styles of jackets. There are some jackets where fastening the bottom is required, however.

Double breasted jackets traditional come in a 6x2 style (6 total buttons, 2 buttons on display that may be fastened, not including the internal jigger button).

Some tailoring houses are a bit more dynamic. French tailor Cifonelli (left) is a master of the 6x1 button style. Edward Sexton of Savile Row (right) demonstrate a fine 4x1 button style.

Both require the bottom button to be fastened, both have generous lapel widths, and both possessing flare and sex appeal in their own right.

Although with standards slipping so much these days, I think wearing any sort of jacket or blazer will put you in the good books of those with taste, certainly in mine.

Yours stylishly,

William